In This Guide
Why Yosemite Is Worth the Permit Battle
Yosemite is the park that defined what national parks should be — and nearly 140 years after its establishment, it still earns the designation. El Capitan rises a sheer 3,000 feet from the Valley floor. Half Dome’s polished granite face catches the last light of every sunset. Bridalveil Fall sprays hikers from 200 feet above. These are not modest landscapes that reward patience. They are genuinely arresting, and photographs do not do them justice.
The honest tradeoff is crowds. With 3.7 million visitors in 2023, Yosemite Valley in July feels more like a theme park than a wilderness experience. The parking lots fill by 8 AM, shuttle lines grow long, and the Mist Trail footbridge gets backed up with people stopped for photos. If the Valley in peak summer is the only version of Yosemite you know, it is easy to understand the frustration.
But Yosemite is 748,000 acres. Beyond the Valley, Tuolumne Meadows offers high-country hiking at 8,600 ft with a fraction of the crowds, and trails like Clouds Rest and Cathedral Lakes deliver the Sierra Nevada at its finest. The trick is timing — May, early June, and September are when Yosemite rewards hikers who have done their research. This guide gives you everything you need to plan a trip that goes right.
Park Stats at a Glance
Established
1890
Size
748,436 acres
Elevation
2,127 – 13,114 ft
Annual Visitors
3.7 million (2023)
Best Months
May, Jun, Sep, Oct
Half Dome Permits
300/day via lottery
Bear Canisters
Required in backcountry
Entry Fee
$35/vehicle (7-day)
Cell Service
Valley only (limited)
Website
nps.gov/yose
Quick Note: Timed Entry Reservations
From late May through early September, driving into Yosemite between 5 AM and 4 PM requires a timed-entry reservation booked on recreation.gov. These sell out quickly. Book as soon as the release window opens — typically 2–3 months in advance.
Top 6 Trails in Yosemite
Yosemite has over 800 miles of maintained trails. These six represent the range of experiences available — from the iconic to the underrated, from Valley floor to high-country alpine.
Half Dome Trail
Very StrenuousDistance
16 miles RT
Elevation Gain
4,800 ft
Best Season
May – October (cables)
The park's signature route ascends the John Muir Trail past Vernal and Nevada Falls before the relentless switchbacks up the Sub Dome. The final 400 feet on steel cables installed each spring require leather gloves — the rock is polished smooth by millions of hands. Start no later than 5 AM from Happy Isles to summit before afternoon thunderstorms. Permit required for the cables section from late May through Columbus Day weekend.
Yosemite Falls Trail
StrenuousDistance
7.2 miles RT
Elevation Gain
2,700 ft
Best Season
April – June
The tallest waterfall in North America at 2,425 feet drops in three tiers visible from the Valley floor. The trail switchbacks steeply from the Valley up to Columbia Rock (1.7 miles), then continues to the base of Upper Fall and the exposed overlook at the top. Peak flow is mid-April through early June when snowmelt is at its highest. By August the falls are often dry — this is genuinely one of the best spring hikes in California.
Mist Trail to Nevada Fall
StrenuousDistance
5.4 miles RT
Elevation Gain
1,900 ft
Best Season
May – September
The most popular trail in the park for good reason — the spray-soaked granite steps beside Vernal Fall are unlike anything else in the Sierra. Arrive before 9 AM or after 2 PM to avoid the worst of the summer crowds at the Vernal Fall footbridge. The switchbacks above the fall are exposed and slippery when wet. Nevada Fall (594 ft) at the top is dramatically underphotographed compared to Vernal. Waterproof jacket and traction device in early season are not optional.
Clouds Rest
StrenuousDistance
14 miles RT
Elevation Gain
1,800 ft
Best Season
July – October
Accessed from the Tenaya Lake trailhead on Tioga Road, Clouds Rest rises to 9,926 ft with a 360-degree summit panorama that many Yosemite veterans consider superior to Half Dome — and without a permit requirement. The narrow granite ridge just below the summit requires careful footing but is not technical. Plan for Tioga Road (Highway 120) to be open, which typically means late May or June through November. Water is available at Tenaya Lake and Sunrise Creek crossing.
Panorama Trail
ModerateDistance
8.5 miles one-way
Elevation Gain
1,200 ft
Best Season
June – October
Run as a point-to-point from Glacier Point (accessed by the Glacier Point Road or bus) down to the Valley via Nevada Fall and the Mist Trail. The first two miles below Glacier Point deliver continuous views of Half Dome, the Clark Range, and Nevada Fall that justify the shuttle logistics. This is the best single day hike in the park for visual variety relative to effort. Catch the YARTS or Glacier Point Tour bus up, walk down — it eliminates a 3,200 ft climb and turns a hard day into a satisfying one.
Cathedral Lakes
ModerateDistance
7.4 miles RT
Elevation Gain
1,000 ft
Best Season
July – September
A Tuolumne Meadows classic. The trail begins at the Tuolumne Meadows parking area and winds through open lodgepole forest to Lower Cathedral Lake at 9,288 ft, with the granite spire of Cathedral Peak reflected in the water. Upper Cathedral Lake (9,585 ft) is a 0.5-mile side trip with even more solitude. Bears are active in this zone — a bear canister is required for overnight trips and strongly recommended for day trips if you plan to eat lakeside. Best mosquito conditions after August 1.
Half Dome Permits: How the Lottery Works
The Half Dome cables permit system exists because the park was seeing 1,000+ hikers per day on a route designed for far fewer. The daily limit of 300 is split between the pre-season lottery (225 permits) and the daily lottery (75 permits). Both are managed exclusively through recreation.gov.
The pre-season lottery opens in early March — typically March 1–4 — for the entire cables season (late May through Columbus Day weekend, exact dates depend on snow conditions). Apply during the lottery window, list up to 6 preferred dates, and results are announced around March 15. Midweek dates in May, June, and September have significantly better odds than weekends in July and August.
The daily lottery opens at 12:00 AM two days before each available hiking date. Results are released by 10 AM the day before. This is your backup if you missed the pre-season window, but competition is fierce for desirable weekend dates.
Permit Tip
Walk-up permits at the trailhead are effectively a rumor — they exist in principle but are distributed via a separate queue that rarely materializes into actual permits during peak season. Do not drive to Yosemite banking on a walk-up Half Dome permit.
Wildlife & Bear Safety
Yosemite has approximately 300–500 black bears — not grizzlies. Black bears are generally non-aggressive but they are large, intelligent, and extremely persistent around food. The park service estimates that human-bear conflicts cost hundreds of thousands of dollars in property damage annually, almost entirely from improper food storage.
In the backcountry, bear canisters are required in most zones — check the specific zone regulations on your wilderness permit. The NPS-approved models include the BearVault BV500 and Garcia Backpacker’s Cache. Soft canisters like the Ursack AllMitey are approved in Yosemite as a bear-resistant container and are significantly lighter. Hang canisters away from your tent, not from branches (bears in Yosemite have learned to defeat bear hangs).
In developed campgrounds, the provided steel bear boxes must be latched at all times — even when you step away briefly. Never leave food, snacks, gum, toothpaste, sunscreen, or scented items in your tent or vehicle. Yosemite bears have broken into tens of thousands of cars and have learned to recognize soft-sided coolers and grocery bags through windows.
If you encounter a bear on the trail: maintain at least 50 yards of distance. If a bear approaches, stand your ground, make yourself look large, speak loudly and firmly. Never run. Bears in Yosemite are food-conditioned and may follow hikers — the correct response is to assert your space. Report all encounters to a ranger.
Best Time to Visit Yosemite
April – June: Waterfall Season
Peak waterfalls from snowmelt. Yosemite Falls, Bridalveil, Vernal, and Nevada are at full volume. Tioga Road may still be closed in April and early May. Temperatures are mild in the Valley (50–70°F days). Crowds are moderate compared to summer.
July – August: Peak Crowds
Highest visitation. Parking full by 8 AM most days. Timed-entry reservations required. Tioga Road open, giving access to Tuolumne Meadows and the high country. Waterfalls diminish significantly. Heat in the Valley (80–95°F). If this is your window, focus on Tuolumne or start Valley hikes before dawn.
September – October: Best Overall
The sweet spot. Crowds drop sharply after Labor Day. Tioga Road typically stays open through October (weather permitting). Fall color appears in the Valley and Tuolumne by mid-October. Temperatures are comfortable for hiking. Waterfalls have recovered slightly from late-summer lows.
November – March: Winter
Tioga Road closed. Valley is accessible and dramatically beautiful in snow. Ice skating at Curry Village, snowshoeing on Valley trails. Some facilities closed. No timed-entry requirement. Best for solitude; expect cold temperatures (20–45°F) and road chain controls.
Essential Gear for Yosemite
Gear requirements vary by season and route. These are the items that matter most for Yosemite specifically.
Bear Canisters
Required for backcountry camping in most zones. The BearVault BV500 holds 700 cubic inches and fits most 4–5 day trips comfortably. For ultralight backpackers, the Ursack AllMitey is NPS-approved in Yosemite and weighs just 7.6 oz vs the BV500’s 41 oz.
Trekking Poles
Essential for Half Dome’s granite switchbacks and the knee-punishing descent on the Mist Trail. The Black Diamond Trail Ergo Cork is the standard recommendation — cork grips handle sweat well and the ergonomic angle reduces wrist fatigue on long descents.
Hiking Boots
Granite requires grip. Trail runners work for experienced hikers on dry summer trails, but mid-cut boots with stiff soles are better for Half Dome and early-season wet conditions. See our full best hiking boots guide for tested picks across all budgets.
Water Filter
Yosemite’s backcountry streams are clear but should be filtered. The Sawyer Squeeze weighs 3 oz, filters 100,000 gallons over its lifetime, and works with standard Smartwater bottles — the default choice for Sierra backpacking.
Insulation Layer
Temperatures in Yosemite can swing 40°F between morning and afternoon, and the high country drops near freezing at night even in July. The Patagonia Nano Puff compresses to fist size, weighs 12.5 oz, and handles the Valley-to-high-country temperature range better than any other single layer.
Half Dome-Specific Gear
Leather gloves are required for the cables section — the steel cables will strip unprotected skin. Heavy-duty work gloves or leather hiking gloves work. Some hikers also bring microspikes for the early season when the cables first go up and ice remains on the approach. Check NPS conditions reports before your trip.
Getting There & Logistics
Yosemite Valley is approximately 4 hours from San Francisco and 5.5 hours from Los Angeles. Highway 140 through Mariposa is the most reliable year-round route — it stays open in winter when the higher-elevation approaches close. Highway 120 via the Big Oak Flat entrance is faster from the Bay Area and gives access to Crane Flat and the Tioga Road corridor.
Once inside, the free Valley Shuttle runs year-round and stops at all major trailheads, visitor facilities, and campgrounds. During timed-entry periods, many hikers park at the Valley Visitor Center (Stop 5) and use the shuttle rather than driving between sites. The shuttle eliminates a significant amount of the parking frustration that plagues summer visits.
Camping options: Valley campgrounds (Upper Pines, Lower Pines, North Pines) are the most competitive reservations in the national park system — they open at 8 AM Pacific on reservation.gov exactly 5 months in advance and sell out in seconds for summer dates. Backpacker campgrounds in the Valley require a wilderness permit. Hodgdon Meadow and Crane Flat near the Big Oak Flat entrance are notably easier to book.
Wilderness permits for overnight backcountry trips are required and available through the Yosemite wilderness permit system on recreation.gov starting in mid-February. The Half Dome permit is separate from the wilderness permit — you need both if your Half Dome hike is part of a multi-day trip.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do you need a reservation to enter Yosemite?▼
Yes — from late May through early September, Yosemite requires a timed-entry reservation to drive into the park between 5 AM and 4 PM. Reservations are released in batches on recreation.gov, typically 2–3 months in advance and again 7 days before arrival. Visitors staying in park lodging, campgrounds, or arriving before 5 AM or after 4 PM do not need a reservation. Outside the reservation window (roughly October through late May), no timed entry is required, but the park is still open and busy on weekends.
How hard is it to get a Half Dome permit?▼
Very hard. The daily quota is 300 hikers on the cables section (open roughly Memorial Day weekend through Columbus Day, depending on conditions). The main lottery runs in early March for the entire season — apply at recreation.gov before the March 1 deadline. Each applicant can list up to 6 dates. If you miss the pre-season lottery, a second daily lottery opens the day before each available date. Walk-up permits at the trailhead are extremely rare and essentially unreliable for planning purposes. Your best strategy: enter the pre-season lottery as early as possible, list multiple midweek dates in May, June, or September, and have a non-cables backup plan for your trip.
Are there bears in Yosemite — how dangerous are they?▼
Yosemite has black bears — not grizzlies. Black bears are generally not aggressive toward people, but they are bold, persistent, and highly food-motivated. Yosemite records dozens of human-bear encounters every year, almost all resulting from improper food storage. A bear that gets human food repeatedly becomes habituated and may eventually be euthanized. The risk to hikers is property damage and food loss rather than physical attack — but a surprised bear at close range can react defensively. Maintain 50 yards of distance, never approach a bear, and store all food correctly. In the backcountry this means a bear canister; in developed campgrounds, the provided bear boxes.
What are the best hikes in Yosemite Valley without crowds?▼
For a Valley hike with noticeably thinner crowds, try the Four Mile Trail to Glacier Point (9.6 miles RT, 3,200 ft gain) — most people take the bus up and walk down, so going up early in the morning means solitude above 7,000 ft. The Valley Floor Loop (13 miles, flat) is excellent at dawn before 8 AM. Cook's Meadow Loop (1 mile, flat) offers El Capitan and Half Dome views and is overlooked by most visitors. For a view rivaling Half Dome with a fraction of the foot traffic, Clouds Rest accessed from Tenaya Lake trailhead is the best option in the entire park — but it requires Tioga Road access (open roughly June–November).
When does Yosemite get the most snow?▼
Yosemite Valley (around 4,000 ft elevation) gets significant snow roughly December through March, though snow can fall any month above 7,000 ft. Tioga Road — the main route through the high country to Tuolumne Meadows — typically closes in November and reopens between late May and early June, depending on snowpack. In heavy snow years like 2023, Tioga Road did not open until late June. Winter in Yosemite Valley is beautiful and much less crowded, but roads can close temporarily after storms and some amenities are seasonal. Check nps.gov/yose for current road conditions before any winter trip.